Starlight Women Slippers - Free Crochet Pattern

Starlight Women Slippers - Free Crochet Pattern

Size: 23 cm length and 22 cm circumference around the foot (or 11 cm across the foot when lying flat).
The slippers will fit adult women with foot size 38 - 40 in European feet measuring system.
For smaller/larger feet add less/more rounds before starting to work in rows for the heel. Note that the slippers will stretch in length.
Please check your gauge and also try the slippers on while working.
 If the slippers are too narrow/wide on your feet, make changes in the 3rd round increasing more/less stitches evenly spaced. Be sure to have a total number of stitches multiple of 2 required by the star stitch pattern in the round. If you will alter the number of stitches, you will also need to make changes after working in rows for the heel decrease.

Gauge: 1 complete star made of 1 row of star stitch and 1 row of hdc: 1.375 cm width and 2 cm length.  (My own gauge is different from the toddler size, so check out your own gauge).

Materials:
- 1 skein (100 g) of yarn in main color; yarn weight: worsted 10 ply (medium 4). Small amount of yarn in other colors (as many colors as you wish). I used Red Heart Baby Soft yarn that I had left over from the toddler pattern, but I would recommend you to use a more sturdier yarn.
- 4.5 mm crochet hook
- tapestry needle to sew in the ends
- scissors
- stitch marker, alternative a small piece of yarn.

For the description of the stitches, terms (US) abbreviations used, for picture tutorial, notes regarding color change and almost invisible join into round, please refer to the Toddler Size Pattern.  Special stitches: star stitch and half double crochet worked into 3rd loop -  description and tutorial can be found also in the Toddler pattern.



Starlight Women Slippers Pattern:

Start at the toe with a magic ring.
Round 1: ch1, 8hdc into ring, join with sl st to top of first st, pull yarn end to close the ring. (8 sts)
Round 2: ch1, 2hdc in each st around, slst to top of first hdc (16 sts)
Round 3: ch1, 2hdc in same st, 1hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st*, repeat around from * to *, slst to top of first hdc. (24 sts)
Round 4: ch1, 2hdc in same st, 1hdc in each of next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of next  2sts*, repeat around from * to *, slst to top of first hdc. (32 sts)
Round 5: ch3 (the ch3 will be part of the first star stitch here and throughout the pattern).
Work 16 star stitches, slst to top of first leg of first star. (16 stars)
Round 6: slst into ch1 sp on top of first star, ch 1, 2 hdc in same ch sp, 2hdc into ch1sp of each star around; sl st to top of first hdc. (32 sts)
Rounds 7-16 repeat as rounds 5-6.
At the end of round 16 cut yarn and fasten off. (You'll have 6 stripes of completed stars made of 1 round of star stitch and 1 round of hdc.)
The piece is 14 cm long.

From now on you’ll be working in rows!
Note: ch2 at beg of rows does not count as a stitch.
Row 1: Join yarn with a slip knot into the 14th st to the right of the last join into round made, ch 3 and continue with the first star stitch, work 12 stars more, end with 1hdc into same st as the last loops of the last star. (You should have on the front 5 unworked sts from the previous round.)
Turn your work. (13 stars sts total)
Row 2: ch 2 (does not count as a st), work 2 hdc into ch 1 on top of first star and 2 hdc into ch 1 on top of each star till end of row; 1hdc into top of ch 3 of last star. (27 sts)
Rows 3: ch3, work a row of 13 stars, end with 1 hdc into same st as the last loops of the last star. (13 stars)
Row 4- 5 repeat as 2-3

Row 6: Heel decrease on the wrong side (hdc row).
Place a stitch marker into top of 7th star (in the middle of the folded slipper).
Ch2, work 2hdc in ch1sp of each next 5 stars, 1 hdc in ch1sp of next star, 2hdc in ch1sp of next star (here you placed the st marker), 1 hdc in ch1sp of next star, work 2hdc in ch1sp of each next 5 stars, 1 hdc into top of ch3 of last star. (25 sts)
Row 7: ch3 and work a row of 12 stars, 1 hdc into into same st as the last loops of the last star. (12 stars)
Row 8: Ch2, 2hdc in ch1sp of each next 5 stars, 1 hdc in ch1sp of each of next 2 stars, 2hdc in ch1sp of each next 5 stars, 1 hdc into top of ch3 of last star. (23ts)
Row 9: ch 3 and work a row of 11 stars, 1 hdc into same st as the last loops of the last star. (11 stars)

Joining at back heel:
Turn slipper on the wrong side, ch1, fold heel in half and sl st the back heel together through both top loops of each st of the sides.
Turn slipper on the right side and start working around the foot opening.

Work in rounds:
Round 1: Join yarn with a standing sc at back heel. Work more 33 sc stitches evenly spaced around the opening at the top of slipper, join with sl st to first sc. (34 sts)
Round 2: ch1, 1hdc in first st and 1hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc as in the note below:
Note: To have a nice seem, we will use an unconventional joining from here till the end of the cuff! (See the picture tutorial for almost invisible joining from my post How to turn hdc stitches onto knit alike stitches.)
*Release yarn from hook, insert hook from back to front under the 2 top loops of the first st where you joined into round; pick the working loop with the hook and pull it through the back of work. *
If you would like to change colors, after you make the joining as written above from * to * continue this way: Having a loop on the hook, wrap new color around hook and pull it through the loop on hook, and continue the next round with new color.
Round 3: ch1, hdc in 3rd loop of each st around, sl st to first hdc the same way as written for round 2.
Round 4- 5: repeat as round 3.
Cut yarn. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
You could embellish the slippers with buttons or some pretty crochet flowers.


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